May 16th, 2023Wine notes

with Clive Hartley

Bendigo’s Carnivale
The Strategem Bendigo Winemakers Festival, a couple of weekends ago, saw
sunny weather bring the crowds out en masse to celebrate harvest time. The annual
event was a success with wine, food, and music flowing seamlessly all afternoon.

Nineteen producers were represented and provided a snapshot of our next-
door neighbours. The large Bendigo wine region has a warm, dry climate with a
mean January temperature of 22°C and growing degree days of 1764, compared to
the Macedon Ranges, which stands at 19.3°C and 1289 respectively. That is a big
difference in climate, and in part explains why the wine styles are focused on full-
bodied red wines in Bendigo, and light pinot noir and chardonnay in Macedon.
Bendigo is one of the last bastions of the powerful tannic-driven high alcohol
reds. It defies the current trend for lower alcohol wines. They have their followers,
and if the crowds at the festival were anything to go by, they remain ever popular.
White wines were a tad under-represented on the day, but I was impressed
with a few viogniers. This fleshy and firm white grape is one of my favourites.
Waterwheel 2021 and Turners Crossing 2019 were good but I was most impressed
with GilGraves 2022 that displayed nice stone fruit and a creamy texture.
Grenache and blends such as GSM (grenache, shiraz, mourvèdre) were well
represented. I liked the wines from Chaperon by Grangehill. Their property, north-
west of Maldon, is on the site of a late 19th century vineyard. Owner, Russell
Clarke, makes wines out of the old cellar from his dry-grown bush vines planted
over 20 years ago. The Chaperon GM (60/40 grenache mourvèdre) 2019 was
smooth, light and elegant. His 2019 GSM was more structured and textured and
only 14% alcohol, which is on the low side, compared to the average Bendigo red.
Another recommended grenache came from Wes Vine at Mandurang Valley.
Without exception the shiraz I tasted were all well made. These wines are full-
bodied with strong tannins and high alcohol. Big on ripe blackberry fruits with
touches of black pepper, mint and eucalyptus character. Black Estate 2019 stood
out as a lovely textured, well-balanced smooth wine. Balgownie Estate 2019 was
spice driven with liquorice and black cherries. Turners Crossing’s The Crossing
Shiraz 2018 was powerful with plush tannins. Did I mention the prices? Across the
board the region produces incredibly affordable wines.
* Clive Hartley has just published the 7th edition of his book The Australian Wine Guide
and is running a two-hour master class on June 3. www.australianwineguide.com.au