October 29th, 2023Glen, about the house

Life with El Niño
In normal years we usually expect days of rough and windy November weather. So who can tell what this year will bring? Apart from broken branches caused by the sheer force of the wind, many plants suffer splits and abrasions from being battered against buildings and fences.
Fractured, split and weakened branches should be completely removed or cut back to a point of healthy wood. Dead wood should be removed completely.
You will probably notice that the twine or string used to secure fragile branches to
stakes or other supports has caused rubbing or chafing during strong wind. It may be
necessary to remove any badly affected branches.
Less damaged ones will benefit from a dressing of pruning mastic – sterilising paint or petroleum jelly over their scrapes and cuts, to seal the wounds and aid the healing process.
Old pantyhose are one of the best materials for tying up plants as they do not
cause chafing and their resilience allows some natural movement in the plant.
Young trees, particularly in heavy, sodden soils, may have been blown about so
that their roots have been damaged and the tree now rocks. Look carefully to see if
your young plants need staking, or perhaps, even restaking.
It’s far better to use three evenly spaced stakes around plants, than just one. With a loop that passes from each stake and around the main stem, allowing about 5cm of movement each loop, the tree is able to move minimally and will be almost self-supporting.
Usually trees completely supported by a single stake placed right up to them become totally reliant on that stake and likely fall over if the stake is removed. That’s if the stake itself hasn’t become loose and floppy.
Water the key to success
Gardens can be damaged as much by incorrect watering as they can by lack of it. Fresh green lawns and lush, healthy flower beds can be maintained year long, even through times of drought, by regular feeding and maintenance. It is the way the garden has been watered that holds the key.
Prolonged hot weather can place plants under great stress if the moisture supply
isn’t kept up to their feeder roots, but the problem isn’t necessarily lessened in the
cooler months if the plants aren’t being watered correctly. The first point to remember
is that it is the root system that takes in the water supply for the plant, so there is little
point in supplying water anywhere else but on the ground.
Drip watering systems are most successful because they supply all of the plant’s
needs directly to the roots, and use less than half of the amount of water needed for a
sprinkler or hand-held hose to do the same job.
Thorough watering is best as it encourages deep, strong and self-sufficient roots. A heavy watering once or twice a week – depending on the weather – is far better than frequent surface waterings that encourage developing root systems to grow close to the surface in anticipation of the next supply.
It is best to water early in the morning so the moisture can soak in before the sun’s drying rays can take effect. This is even more important in the heat of summer. If you are using sprinklers, much of the water will have evaporated before it reaches the ground.
Even more importantly, If you are using sprinklers, watering in the evening or
night builds up humidity in the lawn and garden beds and aids in the spread of
fungal disease. Gardens Got a gardening query? Email glenzgarden@gmail.com