September 4th, 2023Wine notes

with Clive Hartley

Bordeaux blends
On the world stage cabernet sauvignon easily outguns shiraz/syrah. It dominates the ‘left bank’ in Bordeaux, France and is famous in the Napa Valley in California. In Australia we have the Yarra Valley, Coonawarra and Margaret River as specialist regions for cabernet. Yet it runs a poor second to shiraz in Australia.
Cabernet sauvignon can make full-bodied wines with plenty of acid and tannins, as well as elegant black fruit flavours wrapped in a cloak of oak. However, when not fully ripe they can appear to be a tad austere and have an herbaceous leafy, green edge. Some people like that style, but others don’t.
Making a Bordeaux blend can overcome some of these shortcomings. A traditional blend found in France is comprised of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and cabernet franc, with the occasional splattering of petit verdot. This blend of grapes produces a harmonious match.
Cabernet sauvignon provides the structure for the blend and contributes body, tannin and acidity. Merlot adds a plum fruit softness on the middle palate that cabernet can lack as well and a tad more alcohol. Cabernet franc provides fresh red berry, floral and violet aromas. Petit verdot can be difficult to ripen in some climates but does OK in Australia. It adds fruit, tannin and a deep colour to the blend.
Do blends make better wines? In my opinion they do. In Australia we pick and choose what makes up the blend. It can be as simple as a cabernet merlot which is more commonly found in Margaret River. Try Woodlands or Cape Mentelle.
Yarra Valley have some fabulous Bordeaux blends. Yeringberg is one of the best in the Yarra and is a classic Bordeaux blend with the touch of malbec as the fifth grape. Yarra Yering and Mount Mary also produce some of Australia’s elite Bordeaux blends.
We also have a wealth of shiraz cabernet blends where the shiraz takes over the role of merlot to provide more fruit flavours. One of my favourites is Sally’s Paddock from Redbank Winery in the Pyrenees. The wine has cabernet franc, malbec and merlot added to the cabernet and shiraz. The vineyard and family just celebrated 50 years in production and deserves more attention.

Clive Hartley is an award-winning wine writer, educator and consultant. Want to learn more about wine? Try his Australian Wine Guide (7th ed) now available for purchase from Paradise Books in Daylesford or via his website – www.australianwineguide.com.au