August 20th, 2023Wine notes … with Clive Hartley

Campania comes to Australia

The fiano grape has truly established itself in Australia, with over 100 producers having planted it since Mark Lloyd from Coriole in the McLaren Vale planted this delicious white in 2001. It is well suited to Australia, being able to withstand drought conditions and can retain its natural acidity, even in the hot climates of Australia. It has open bunches so is resistant to rot problems and can take on organic viticulture.
What you get in the glass is a fleshy white wine with stone fruit and a hint of that almond meal character so often seen in Italian wines. The grape also can be matured in oak and Coriole produce an excellent reserve style called rubato that is barrel fermented. Closer to home Sutton Grange make a fiano that sees lees contact to produce a fleshy example. Billy Button from the Alpine Valley and Brown Brothers also were highly recommended in the last edition of my Australian Wine Guide.
Fiano originates in Campania in southern Italy, traditionally grown around the town of Avellino. Campania is home to a number of grape varieties that have the potential to do well in Australia. Greco is the stablemate to fiano and is grown in the Greco di Tufo region which lies slightly to the north of Avellino. Greco can be viognier-like in its intensity and aromas. Falanghina, which might have been the base of the white version of falernian, the most famous wine in the Roman Empire, is another locally grown white grape and has yet to break through in Australia. This is famous in the stunning Sannio area, and perhaps not as intense as fiano, but another good floral white.
Finally, we come to the most important red of the region, aglianico. Taurasi is the best expression of the grape variety coming again from the hills around Avellino. It is known as the Barolo of the South, having a robust, full bodied structure and high tannins. It has the ability to age well. This grape is growing in popularity in Australia and Sutton Grange make an excellent example that needs plenty of aeration and time in the glass to get the most out of the wine. But it is ideal for the chillier months ahead.

Clive Hartley is an award-winning wine writer, educator and consultant. Want to learn more about wine? Try his Australian Wine Guide (7th ed) now available for purchase from Paradise Books in Daylesford or via his website at www.australianwineguide.com.au